July 15-17 Porto

Monday.  I love maps.  But they're kind of useless in the old city of porto - its a vertical city of winding cobblestone alleys on face of hill, going down (sometimes) to river/port.  Best just to wander and ignore the map. Stayed at poets inn, next to a monastery on top of hill.  It is only open for tours so not overrun w tourists (there were 8 of us).  It was built on the jewish quarter, after the 1492 expulsion.  Three monks still live here and we were allowed tp touch things (seats, organ) usually off limits. Then went into cloister, formerly a courtyard but now has a roof and is used as a performance space. Then walked to newer eastern part of city - that was overrun with tourists and shopping.  Not my style....met up with bruce and lisa, after their long snafued travel day, for fish dinner and 'green' (young, bubbly, CHEAP) wine.

Tuesday. After the "night of the seagulls" (see below) , walked DOWN to the river, then west to the atlantic. Fog burned off by about 1 so spent the afternoon reading/snoozing on the beach, a fortress off in the distance. Love summer.

 Like other European cities, porto is filled with beautiful doors but feels different than rest of europe, even older Italian cities, with its cool blue tiles and ironworks/designs on many buildings. And driving here is a free for all - parking seemingly anywhere (even just stopping, completely blocking road, for deliveries) so you can drive up onto sidewalks to get around cars. Unlike Germany where pedestrians wait for crosswalk lights on deserted streets, here they also follow no rules. Only rule i have figured out is no cars on "travessa" - usually cause they turn into stairs at some point. And have yet to hear an angry car horn. 

 Other than 1 night at munich airport, been sleeping with windows open (no screens) on the mostly (not London) cool nights. Was disconcerting on boat to wake up, going up in the middle of a smelly lock, but mostly ok. Last night the gulls were out and had much to say. Tonight a TBD.

Wednesday - Last day.  Ended where i started with a free walking tour where we learmed about portugal's long history, port wine, the harry potter library/robed student/Salazar slytherin-dictator connection (and tourist ripoff) and  historic sites.  Porto really seems like its changing since its unesco status,  and hopefully will retain the feel of its old streets and architecture (And its cheap wine/fish/hotels!) - the side streets east of sao bento are already different IMHO.  After tour, had lunch in a resto (porta IV - as in 4 tables)  including kitchen smaller than my london hotel room. - maybe it was the porto tonic,  but best meal of the trip. 18 euro  for drinks, olives & appetizers,  tuna.  After a nap, time for port wine cellar tour (yes. done more alcohol tours than cycling)  of Taylor's, who have been making wine since the 1600s, a boat ride and more food.  Then a long walk UP to the hotel.  

July 13 krems-melk

Woke up to grey skies and drizzle but set off through half a dozen cobblestoned towns, through the vineyards of the wachau region. Almost saw the sun and then stopped at a winery for a 10am tasting (4 generous pours for 7€) and got back on the bikes a little less stable.  And then the rain came.  Steadily, and getting harder.  Not too cold, but by the time we got to melk we were all pretty chilled and soaked.  Well, except audrey on the boat, and the chodirkers/sam who lingered at the winery. Had to wait for the boat so found a restaurant and bought lots of soup and hot cocoa. 4pm departure, without anne & jj as they're taking train back to Munich for an early flight.

Sunday was a  reversal of prior week for most (boat/bus/train) then combo of various activities in Munich (some went to dachau, others toured), with about half of us meeting up at hofbrauhaus for a last meal, with beer and pretzels.  Some travel snafus (wrong hotel,  delays), probably most interesting was "your papers please' on s-bahn.  If you take a train in germany, public transit is free that day.  But when the handwritten names on the train ticket dont match the people on the subway, they were not happy.  But all ended well and after getting separated/lost at Munich airport, we all made it to our varied destinations, most heading home the next day.

July 12 - Vienna

I think its safe to say that no city will ever be built on rhis scale again.  Huge ornate structures everywhere you look.   I imagine Rome, Athens (maybe Paris, or NYC in another way) were on this scale at some point;  it is something.  We split up to find the palaces, museums, and as many guys on a horse as we could spot. Some of us met up for a Mozart concert at schonnbrunner palace, where he used to play.  Pretty cool.  Back to the boat by 11pm - not nearly enough time here, so gonna have to return.  Last real day tomorrow.   Rained all morning while we were traveling, but sun was out for our time in the city.  So far, great weather - suuny, 70s, no wind.  

July 11 Vac-esztergom

Short overnight boat ride from Budapest up to vac.  Classic european town - ruined castle,  big church, town square, outdoor market.  After tooling around for about half hour, we all met up coincidentally at the synagogue (no jews left here, but shul in good shape).  Turned west along the river, heading upstream for first time.  Path in hungary not as perfect as in Austria but its well marked so avoided getting lost.  River wider here than prior days, and seeing more houses/boats/swimmable areas.  Took ferry back over river at szob, then quick tour around esztergom, and its VERY BFC before 4pm departure - long sail back to Vienna tonight.  Bbq/pirate night on the ship!  50km.

July 10 Budapest. Off the bike.

Took subway, with its cool tri-poles, under the river from buda to pest to see jewish quarter.  Jews lived outside castle in buda during middle ages (ruins still buried), but pest is where ghetto was in ww2.  Now it features the 'Ruined bars' (truly unique!l) and there are still 3 synagogues here. Went inside orthodox one that was used as a stable during war, with its 5 armed menorahs.  Grand shul, largest? In Europe, holds 3000 people and looks like a church. Its on the site where herzl was born. And the third, which is not active, is a "breakaway" from the grand shul. Finished at the holocaust shoe memorial by the river. Also went to a memorial by Hungarian govt to the German occupation, but it has been criticized as being innaccurate & revisionist - Hungarian jews were not killed by nazis but by hungarians, who were allies of the nazis.  After the tour, and again after dinner, split up to explore the restaurants,  castles, churches, baths, markets, museums (free wine Wednesday!) and parks around the city. Interesting fact - Budapest was bombed by Americans,  russians and germans as it changed hands multiple times during the war.  As we learned in Slovakia,  hungary "bad".  BTW US embassy here, like in Bratislava,  is fenced/guarded with no photography allowed - MAGA! Ended day at light-sound show at fountain.  Budapest stunning at night with castles,  parliament and bridges all lit up.  Great city!

July 9 - Bratislava

Started the day with a wrong turn out of the parking lot,  a flat for jenn because Schrader valves here unscrew all the way off the tubes and a puncture for rafi.  So after slight delay, we were biking up a Danube tributary in Slovakia.  Todays loop was back into austria, away from the river to schlosshof castle (another mechanical as beckys derailer sheared off) and then looping through sunflower, wheat, soy and beet (?) Fields.  We thought the castle, while beautiful, might be too much work for us. Only got lost one more time and crossed back into what now definitely feels like eastern europe, and into Bratislava around 2.30.  Classic european city - big churches, a castle and lots of public spaces and statues.  After much debate about dropping off the bikes at the boat, we split up onto two tours of the city. One historical and the other 20th century communism. Turns out the comminists around 1970  tried to outdo the nazis here,  putting a 4 lane concrete bridge right through remaining Jewish quarter,  tearing down a synagogue in its way.  Now theres a holocaust memorial there.   Drank some 2 euro beers, and most folks ate on town. 45 km.

July 8 - Aschach

Shattering the world record for a bike trip injury (2018 paula sinclair dehydration on 1st night), trying to fix her handlebar bag as she was getting onto the trail, audrey fell and dislocated her shoulder.  After a trip to the hospital in passau, the biking part of her vacation is sadly over. The rest of us, although concerned, biked down the river on a nice trail alternating between right and left sides (travel across bridges at locks/ferries).  Did short hike up to stunning viewpoint over the "great bend" where the river doubles back on itself.  The boat passed us at our lunch spot. across from schloss-newhaus castle and after ice cream, we were back on the boat by 2pm.  3pm departure as we are sailing pretty far tonight.  Hung on the deck, 5 course gala dinner (plus sorbet before main course) and tried to play a card game for which we didnt know the rules.  photos to be uploaded...slow internet. 

Some thoughts on the boat.  First, its way nicer than most of us imagined.  Bigger room than our London hotel for sure, and cool nights with open windows.  A very smooth ride going downstreamso far.  Probably half german and half english speakers so 'mostly accurate' info is given in both languages by jorgen.  Drink prices very reasonable (15 euro for bottle of wine) and they load/unload our bikes so boarding is pieceof cake.  We go through 11 locks pretty seemlessly.  There are many other river barges - we see at least a dozen others daily but the bike paths are mostly empty.   Food has been good and nicely presented.  Think this could be the new normal for bike trips.. simple planning, reasonable $, and many possibilities.  We'll see...

50km, totally flat, 98% on paved paths.

July 6-7 Germany - munich/passau

Started Saturday with a "free' (tips based model, being rolled out around european cities) tour of 'old' munich, although 80% of it was destroyed/rebuilt after WWII.  Tall spires of frauenkirche church were not destroyed as they were landmarks for bombers.  The inner city is closed to cars, which is GREAT - but why is it mostly shopping?  Highlights included the hofbrauhaus (drinking liters of beer since 1589), the glockenspiel (clock with show), and lots of information about beer. Ended at viktualenmarkt tempted by a radler and some food.  In the afternoon,  went to Deutsche museum, which had a large tech display (astronomy,  maths, computers, power).  Some of it rather dated, and no A/C, but enjoyable.  Still something creepy about seeing german technology.  Walked over to start of munich-venice ride, then back to hotel to meetup with Mike.  At night, returned to the hofbrauhaus and then free outdoor opera.  

Sunday. Woke up to rain, but still walked through englishen gardn, a lovely park with surfable river running through it.  E-Scootered back to hotel to meet up with everyone for the train to passau, and the ms carissima.  And it all worked!  Boat departed for engelhartzell at 5pm and everyone seems happy!  Nice dinner and then a walk through the tiny town.  Tomorrow onto our bikes.

July 2-5 Scotland

Tuesday. Took the train (precisely on time) up to edinburgh, home of haggis, JK Rowling, Adam Smith,  castles and scotch whiskey. Hotel cairn a definite upgrade from the ridgemount in london - thanks mark!  Spent afternoon walking around colton hill, old town with its closes (alleys) and courts, gardens and then we divided up- jon going on a ghost walk of the underground, mark going for a run along waters of leith.   Met up for a late indian dinner.  13 miles, much of it vertical and with a light jacket on.

 

Wednesday. No alarm today so later start up to "Arthur's seat", 250m up at top of Hollyrood park. Edinburgh is very hilly and it was a good, although leisurely with a nap at the top, hike through open fields to 360° views out to the sea. Passed by the castle where the queen was hosting her garden party - somehow we were not invited. After lunch, went to museum of Scotland, starring dolly the sheep and good overview of Scotland history. Today during Mark's run (somehow, he is considering this a business trip), jon hit a pub for a beer and wee dram of whiskey. 12 miles.

Thursday.
Nobody ever confused the Caribbean with the North sea. Steely colored water and sky, wind, nobody lounging on the beach - thats how I always imagined Scotland. Today we saw that. Headed northwest to Loch Lomond (driving on the left!) arriving in Luss by 11.30. Set off UP to Beinn Dubh, a 11.5km hike, up 725m. Fairly steep climb along grassy path - no trees or rocks - just steep rolling mountains with views over the lake and valleys. At the top, with both temps and windspeeds close to 50, walked through boggy/peaty area (thus the flavor of whiskey made in the area) with views to the head of the lake and to the Arrochar Alps. After a coffee in town, back to Drymen where mark actually did not run. Oldest pub (1734) in scotland is here so had to go.

Friday. Last day in the UK so started ot off with a tour of glengoyne, makers of fine highlands whisky (not whiskey- that'd mean it's NOT scotch) since 1833. Nothing like a dram of 12 year old at 10am. Right now they are not distilling (6 week holiday) so you can see into the machinery and casks, and take photos - no photography while distilling due to explosive nature of vapors. I didn't reserve a bottle of the $25K 50 YO singke malt that'll be ready in 3 years. Drove through Glasgow (disappointing & dirty- sorry jason) and to airport for flight to Munich, and next segment of trip. Well, for me.  For 'some reason, Mark's boarding pass said yesterday '.   Resolution TBD as of this post.